CIA Culinary Intelligence

Crostini with Guacamole, Tapenade & Aïoli

Everyone knows that our country is a melting pot. That's especially evident on the first Sunday in February as people across the U.S. join together to watch the Super Bowl and enjoy a melting pot of flavors. The chefs at The Culinary Institute of America came up with an international menu of dips and spreads you can offer your guests. Nearly everyone eats their dips with some sort of chips, but why not try something different and easy this year? Serve them with freshly baked Italian Crostini.

Crostini are simple and quick to make, and they offer the busy cook a wide variety of flavor, textures, and colors. "Meaning 'little toasts' in Italian, Crostini refers both to a toasted piece of Italian or French bread," says CIA Chef Dwayne LiPuma. "They should be easy to pick up, and small enough to eat in one or two bites. Thinly slice the bread in rounds or at an angle, and you can toast, grill, or broil them for more flavor and texture."

Tapenade, a delicious paste made of ground Kalamata olives, and aïoli originated in the Provençe region of France. Aïoli is traditionally made with egg yolks, oil, vinegar, lemon juice, and spices, but the recipe below uses store-bought mayonnaise to save time.

Guacamole, another favorite dip at Super Bowl time, is made from mashed avocados, lemon or lime juice, and chile peppers. It's so simple to make—preparing your own fresh guacamole at home is a great alternative to purchasing ready-made products. To prevent browning, it's best to work quickly, and before refrigerating, cover guacamole with a layer of plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the mixture.

The following recipes can be found in The Culinary Institute of America's Gourmet Meals in Minutes (Lebhar-Friedman, 2004) available at bookstores or at www.ciastore.com.

Watch the video on Youtube >

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Guacamole

Makes 8 servings

• 10 avocados, halved, pitted, and peeled
• 6 tablespoons lime juice
• 1 tomato, diced (optional)
• 1 jalapeño (optional), seeded and minced
• 1 bunch scallions, sliced
• 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
• 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or as needed
• Salt, as needed
• Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

1. Mash the avocados with a fork.
2. Add the lime juice, tomato, jalapeño, scallions, and cilantro, and adjust seasoning with the Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper.
3. Hold the guacamole under refrigeration in a tightly covered storage container. It is best to make guacamole the same day it is to be served.

Nutrition analysis with tomato per ounce: 35 calories, 1g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 31g fat, 20mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 2g fiber.

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Tapenade

Makes 8 servings

• 2 cups pitted kalamata or other cured black olives
• 3 anchovy fillets, drained
• 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, rosemary, or basil

1. Put the olives, anchovy fillets, capers, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse the machine on and off in short blasts until a coarse paste forms. There should still be distinct pieces of olive in the mixture.
2. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil until the paste is smooth enough to spread, though it should be slightly chunky.
3. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the lemon juice and fresh herbs. Serve at room temperature.

Note: Tapenade keeps for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Nutrition analysis per ounce: 90 calories, 1g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 9g fat, 0mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

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Aïoli

Makes approximately 1 cup

• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 garlic clove, minced

1. Combine the mayonnaise and garlic.

Nutrition analysis per ounce: 110 calories, 0g protein, 7g carbohydrate, 9g fat, 200mg sodium, 5mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

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Crostini

Makes approximately 24

• 1 Baguette

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Slice the baguette in 1/4-inch-thick rounds or cut on a bias. Place the slices on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the outside edges are golden brown.

Nutrition analysis per ounce: 5 calories, 0g protein, 1g carbohydrate, 0g fat, 10mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

Shrimp in Garlic

Sponsored by:

Masters Collection®

A quick fix for garlic lovers, gambas al ajillo, as it is known in Spanish, is a classic tapa. It has been adopted in several Latin American countries where it is common to see variations under the name camarones al ajillo. Be sure to keep a few breath mints handy after enjoying these treats.

Serves 8

6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
10 garlic cloves, sliced very thin
16 shrimp (26 to 30 count), peeled and deveined
2 tsp salt, divided use
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
10 Tbsp white wine or lemon juice
1/4 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Heat the oil in a very large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the pepper flakes and garlic for a minute, then add the shrimp and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and a pinch of pepper. Quickly take the shrimp out of the pan with a slotted spoon when they are just cooked through. Remove the fried garlic just as it starts to brown and set aside.
2. Add the white wine or lemon juice to the pan (keeping the heat at medium high), and reduce by three-quarters, shaking the pan frequently to emulsify the sauce, 4 to 5 minutes.
3. Season with 1 teaspoon of salt and a pinch of pepper. Finish the sauce with the chopped parsley. Place the shrimp on a platter and spoon the sauce and fried garlic over the shrimp.

Cook with the proper tools. Use the 12" Sauté and the Perforated Spoon from the CIA Masters Collection.

This recipe is from The Culinary Institute of America's Spain and the World Table cookbook, which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide.

Artichoke and Egg Tortino

Makes 4 servings

4 medium artichokes, cleaned (see note below)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for oiling pan
½ cup minced shallots or onions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup dry white wine
8 large eggs
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons fresh marjoram, coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed

1. Cut the artichokes into thin slices, slicing from top to bottom. The slices will separate into rings, a little like the way onion slices separate.
2. Warm the olive oil in a saucepan. Add the shallots and sauté over medium-high heat until translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley, followed by the artichokes. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine, cover, and cook to evaporate the alcohol and steam the artichokes. When the artichokes are tender, about 12 minutes, remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool somewhat.
3. Preheat an oven to 325°F. Oil an 8-inch pie pan or cast-iron skillet.
4. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the grated cheese, marjoram, salt, and pepper. Add the artichokes and mix until combined. Pour the egg mixture into the pan and slide it into the oven. Bake until the eggs are completely set, about 12 minutes.

Chef’s note: The way you plan to serve artichokes determines what steps need to be followed to prepare them. Fill a bowl with a mixture of water and lemon juice to hold artichokes after they are cut. Whole artichokes for stuffing or serving with a dip need to be trimmed of sharp barbs; kitchen scissors are the best tool for this task. Spread open the leaves and scoop out the purple tipped leaves and hairy filaments with a spoon. For artichoke hearts, cut away most of the tough outer leaves, making sure that you keep “caressing” the outer part with a halved lemon, which will keep the artichokes from turning black. Leave only the base and tender inner leaves behind. To make an artichoke bottom, cut the leaves completely away from the base of the artichoke.


From The Culinary Institute of America's A Tavola! Recipes and Reflections on Traditional Italian Cooking (Lebhar-Friedman, 2009).

CIA Recipe Feature Summer Cukes and Zukes

Zucchini Pancakes with Tzatziki Sauce

Looking for different ways to utilize all those wonderful garden cucumbers and zucchinis this summer? The chefs at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) have a delicious suggestion: crispy zucchini pancakes with a yogurt and cucumber sauce that the Greeks refer to as tzatziki sauce. Throughout the Eastern Mediterranean, tzatziki is considered both as a salad as well as a sauce.

Cucumbers are one of the oldest cultivated vegetables and are believed to have been native to India. Extremely popular in Europe during the late 1400s, the vegetable was brought over to the New World by Columbus. Available in many varieties—ranging from pickling and slicing cucumbers to those that are yellow in color—the cucumber has a refreshing texture and taste that makes it well-suited to warm summer weather.

According to the Oxford Companion to Food, Zucchini is the Italian and American name for what the French and many English-speaking people call courgettes d'Italie, a variety of Cucurbita squash that is developed to harvest when relatively small, around 3 to 4 inches. The name zucchini stuck because the Italians were the first to market the vegetable in the small size. First introduced to the U.S. by Italian immigrants, the vegetable gained popularity and can be found today in many of our gardens and dishes.

"The pancakes below feature feta cheese and chopped walnuts to punctuate the relatively mild taste of the zucchini in these crispy fritters," says CIA Chef Lynne Gigliotti. "The yogurt-and-cucumber sauce adds richness to the pancakes, cools the heat from fiery curries, and can also be served on its own as a salad. And for all of you who have had enough pickles and zucchini bread for the year, this dish is a great way to try something new.

The following recipes are explained and illustrated in The Culinary Institute of America Cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman 2008), which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or online.

Watch the video on YouTube >

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Zucchini Pancakes with Tzatziki Sauce

Makes 8 portions

Tzatziki Sauce

• 1/2 cup plain yogurt
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup grated cucumber, squeezed dry
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon chopped mint or dill
• 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• Salt, as needed
• Fresh ground black pepper, as needed

Zucchini Pancakes

• 12 ounces coarsely grated zucchini
• Salt, as needed
• 1 cup chopped scallions
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 3 ounces all-purpose flour
• 1/2 ounce chopped dill
• 1/2 ounce chopped flat leaf parsley
• Chopped tarragon
• Freshly ground black pepper, as needed
• 3 ounces crumbled feta cheese
• 2 1/2 ounces chopped toasted pine nuts
• 2 cups olive oil for pan frying, or as needed

1. For the Tzatziki Sauce: Combine the yogurt, sour cream, cucumber, and garlic in a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the olive oil, mint or dill, lemon juice, and zest. Stir until combined and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.
2. Place the grated zucchini in colander. Sprinkle with salt and let stand for 30 minutes. Squeeze the zucchini to remove as much liquid as possible. Dry the zucchini by pressing it between several layers of paper towels.
3. In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, scallions, eggs, flour, dill, parsley, tarragon, salt, and pepper until evenly blended. Fold in the feta cheese. (The pancake mixture can be prepared to this point up to 3 hours ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Stir to blend before continuing.) Fold the pine nuts into the zucchini mixture.
4. Preheat the oven to 300°F to keep the pancakes warm as you work. Place a baking sheet in the oven.
5. Add enough oil to a large skillet to come to a depth of about 1/8 inch, and heat the oil over medium-high heat until the surface of the oil shimmers. Working in batches, drop heaping tablespoons of the zucchini mixture into the hot oil, leaving enough room for the pancakes to spread as they cook. Fry until the pancakes are golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer each batch of pancakes to the baking sheet in the oven to keep warm. Serve immediately with the tzatziki sauce.

Nutrition analysis for tzatziki sauce per one-ounce serving: 40 calories, 1g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 3g fat, 1.5g saturated fat, 60mg sodium, 5mg cholesterol, 0g dietary fiber.

Nutrition analysis for zucchini pancakes per four-ounce serving: 180 calories, 8g protein, 10g carbohydrate, 13g fat, 2.5g saturated fat, 250mg sodium, 85mg cholesterol, 2g dietary fiber.

The Culinary Institute of America and Epicurious.com Team Up with a Winning Recipe and Video for St. Patrick's Day: Irish Soda Bread

If you're like countless others who anxiously await St. Patrick's Day, you have already begun to plan your celebration. You've rummaged the closet in search of green clothing, decorated your home with shamrocks and leprechauns, and searched countless cookbooks for Irish specialties. Before you finalize your menu, be sure to include soda bread. You'll get some great tips on how to make it by watching CIA Chef Eric Kastel and Epicurious.com Editor-in-Chief Tayna Steel in the video below. Sliced thick, slathered with butter, and served alongside corned beef and cabbage, soda bread adds a festive flair to every St. Patrick's Day meal.

With a history spanning more than two centuries, soda bread is a traditional Irish specialty. The first loaf, consisting of little more than flour, baking soda, salt, and sour milk, made its debut in the mid-1800s when baking soda found its way into Irish kitchens. At the time, bread-making in rural Ireland was performed domestically using minimal ingredients, equipment, and experience. Baking soda offered home cooks the opportunity to broaden their repertoire of recipes. Providing a quick, convenient, and reliable leavener, baking soda was simple to work with and easy to store. It also produced a better-tasting bread than what was originally available in the 19th century, making soda bread a staple of the Irish diet.

Today, soda bread is enjoyed throughout the world. Many take pleasure in its tangy flavor, dressing it with butter and preserves for breakfast, eating it with cheese for a light snack, or serving it as an accompaniment to a celebratory feast. As a quick bread, it is simple to prepare. The ingredients come together in a matter of minutes and the loaf is ready to eat in under half an hour. Soda bread can be made with a variety of flours and include a number of added flavors and textures from dried fruits, herbs, and seeds. The Culinary Institute of America's version, prepared with the addition of sugar, raisins, and caraway seeds, uses white cake flour for a light, tender crumb.

"Like most baked goods, soda bread doesn't keep for long," says Chef Kastel. "If properly cooled, wrapped well in plastic, and stored at room temperature, it will maintain its quality for about two days."

To keep the bread moist and preserve its unique texture, some traditional recipes recommend wrapping freshly baked loaves in a clean tea towel while they cool. When serving, divide the bread into quarters using the cross on top of the loaf as a guide. The characteristic marking, cut into the dough before baking, allows ample room for the loaf to expand in the oven and provides four pre-portioned sections, also known as "farls." Legend suggests that the cross is sliced into the bread to scare away evil spirits. Truth or folly, soda bread wouldn't be soda bread without it.

This recipe, along with more than 175 others, is explained and illustrated in The Culinary Institute of America's Breakfasts and Brunches cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman 2005), which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or online at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks_dvds.

 

Irish Soda Bread

Photo Credit: CIA/Ben Fink

Soda Bread

Makes two loaves or sixteen rolls

• 4 cups cake flour
• 1 tablespoon baking soda
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup vegetable shortening
• 1 cup dark raisins
• 1 tablespoon caraway seeds
• 1 cup cold milk

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Prepare a baking sheet by spraying it lightly with cooking spray or lining it with parchment paper.

Sift the flour, baking soda, sugar, and salt together into a large bowl. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut the shortening into the dry ingredients until it resembles coarse meal.

Add the raisins, caraway seeds, and milk. Mix the dough until just combined; avoid over-mixing as this will cause the dough to toughen.

Turn the dough into a lightly floured surface. Press the dough into a ball. Form the dough into two equal loaves, or cut into sixteen equal pieces to make rolls. Dust with flour and lightly score an "X" across the top of each roll or loaf with a sharp knife.

Bake the soda bread until it is lightly browned and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about eight to ten minutes for rolls and twenty-five minutes for loaves. Wrap the bread in a tea towel directly out of the oven.

Cool the soda bread in the tea towel on a wire rack before serving. It can be held at room temperature for up to two days or frozen for up to four weeks.


Nutrition analysis per 2.5-ounce serving: 210 calories, 4g protein, 41g carbohydrate, 4g fat, 520mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 1g fiber.

A Holiday Gift from the Sea: Pan-Fried Calamari

For simple but sparkling holiday entertaining, nothing shines quite like champagne and seafood appetizers. The pairing of salty, savory appetizers with champagne makes for an easy yet elegant party menu.

The Culinary Institute of America's fresh-fried calamari is a classic quick-cook starter that goes perfectly with a glass of bubbly. Epicurean entertaining from New York to Hong Kong to the sunny coast of the Mediterranean features seafood and sparkling wine on the menu – it's a pairing meant for parties.

"Sparkling wine is not only great for celebrations," explains John Fischer, Associate Professor in Table Service at The Culinary Institute of America. "It also happens to be great with food. With its bubbles and good acidity, it goes particularly well with salty and rich foods, like the CIA's pan-fried calamari."

While calamari is an American bistro staple, it can be found in restaurants and family kitchens all over the Mediterranean. Sometimes served with aioli, sometimes topped with parmesan cheese, always blessed with a spritz of lemon, calamari is a simple, yet delectable gift from the sea.

In America, fried calamari is most often accompanied by a marinara sauce or a spicy tomato "Fra Diavolo." Tartar sauce or pepperoncini-flavored aioli can be served as well, but fresh-fried calamari is a confident solo performer.

The difference between perfect tender-crisp calamari and breaded rubber rings is only a matter of minutes. Over-frying it to gain a dark brown coating will yield an inedible mass of chewiness. Calamari needs only a few minutes in hot oil to reach a golden perfection as light as the sparkling Mediterranean. The time in the fryer should resemble a quick dip in the ocean, not a long soak in a hot tub.

Cleaned, ready-to-cook calamari is widely available from fishmongers. Frozen calamari can also be used after defrosting. This calamari recipe uses a simple breading process of first dipping the squid in milk and then lightly seasoned flour. The result is a crispy coating that won't fall off during frying.

Deep-frying in batches without over-crowding will help maintain oil temperature. It's a great choice for intimate gatherings where your guests can join you in the kitchen.

Champagne and calamari – they'll be the most talked about couple at your next holiday gathering!

This recipe has been adapted from The Culinary Institute of America Vegetables cookbook (2007 Lebhar-Friedman), which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks_dvds.

 

Crisp and salty snacks, like the CIA's Calamari, make a
perfect accompaniment for Champagne this holiday season.

Photo Credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

Pan-fried Calamari
Makes 4-6 appetizer servings

• 3/4 pound fresh calamari, cleaned and rinsed
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, or as needed for dredging
• 2 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning mix
• Salt and pepper as needed
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 cup olive or canola oil, or as needed for pan frying
• 2 cups tomato sauce (recipe below) warmed

1. Cut the squid's body into thin rings approximately 1/8-inch thick. Rinse the rings and tentacles thoroughly in cold water, then blot dry on absorbent toweling.


2. Combine the flour, Old Bay seasoning, salt, and pepper in a large plate or pan. Pour milk into a shallow bowl.


3. Add the oil to a skillet (there should be about 1/4-inch covering the bottom and preheat the oil over medium-high heat.


4. Dip the squid rings and tentacles into the milk first and then in the seasoned flour, turning to coat evenly. Immediately lower the coated calamari into the hot oil. Cook, turning occasionally, until the squid is golden brown on all sides, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the calamari from the oil and drain briefly on absorbent toweling.


5. Serve the squid with the warm tomato sauce for dipping.

Nutrition analysis per 3.25-ounce serving using canola oil and without tomato sauce: 140 calories, 11g protein, 11g carbohydrate, 6g fat, 230mg sodium, 135mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

Tomato Sauce
Makes 6 servings

• 2 Tablespoons olive oil
• 2 yellow onions, finely diced
• 8 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 1/2 pounds plum (Roma) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 1 Tablespoon fresh basil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.


2. Add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 6 minutes.


3. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.


4. Add the tomatoes, bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20-25 minutes.


5. Add the basil and simmer for 5 minutes more.


6. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Nutrition analysis per one-ounce serving: 10 calories, 0g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 0.5g fat, 10mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

Roasted Pumpkin Seeds and Pumpkin Carving

The arrival of the cool autumn weather brings truckloads of pumpkins just waiting to be carved into Jack-O-Lanterns. The end result: a gorgeous gourd to lure trick-or-treaters, as well as oodles of leftover pumpkin seeds.

"Pumpkin seeds are a delicious and healthy snack, so be sure to save them when you carve your Halloween pumpkins," explains Chef David Kamen, professor at The Culinary Institute of America. "Roasting them is easy; simply remove them from the pulp, rinse, season, and roast. For a little extra kick I recommend adding a little cayenne pepper before roasting."

According to the Encyclopedia of Food and Culture, Halloween was brought to North America by Irish and British colonists. The Irish celebrated a harvest festival by carving lanterns out of large turnips. These were given faces and handles to be carried around or set up on walls to create a spooky atmosphere. When the tradition was brought to the new world, settlers found that hollow pumpkins were much easier to carve than hard turnips. Irish folklore tells the tale of "Jack of the Lantern," a wandering spirit of a man who was refused entry into either heaven or hell in the afterlife and doomed to forever roam the earth carrying a turnip lantern that held a piece of burning coal. Today, Americans continue the tradition of carving jack-o-lanterns to cast an eerie glow on Halloween night.

CIA Chef David Kamen suggests some advance planning before going out to buy your pumpkins. "Select the designs you like first so you can choose a pumpkin with the right size 'canvas' for your creation," he says. "This way you can ensure a perfectly carved pumpkin each and every time."

 

A pumpkin and pumpkin seeds for Halloween from the CIA.

Photo Credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

• 1 1/2 cups pumpkin seeds
• 2 tablespoons olive oil or non-stick cooking spray
• 1 teaspoon salt

1. Remove the seeds from the pulp and strings. Place in a strainer and rinse under water. Pat dry with a paper towel.


2. Toss the dried seeds in olive oil or spray a baking sheet with cooking spray. If seeds are coated in oil, place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If you are using cooking spray, spray directly onto the baking sheet. Spread the seeds out to form a single layer and season with salt. Place in a 325º F oven, stirring often to ensure even browning until a pleasant aroma is apparent, approximately 25 minutes.


3. Remove immediately and transfer to a fresh pan or plate to cool.


4. Roasted pumpkin seeds can stay in an air-tight container for a few days.

Nutrition analysis per 1-ounce serving: 180 calories, 6g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 16g fat, 240mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, less than 1g fiber.

Pumpkin Carving Basics

1. Choose a pumpkin with a flat bottom if you want it to sit in the window or on your front porch. You can cut out the bottom and place the pumpkin over a candle to make it steady. Depending on the pattern you wish to use you may opt for one that is round or oblong.


2. Make a design for carving, purchase the ones in the store, or download one from the Web.


3. Cut out the pumpkin top or bottom depending on the pattern you are using. Scoop out the insides and scrape the sides clean. If you cut off the top, make sure you remove any pulp that may hang down inside the pumpkin.


4. Transfer the image from a template using the manufacturer's directions or draw one on with a magic marker.


5. To carve, you can use the tools from the purchased kit or a paring knife. Cut perpendicular to the pumpkin using a sawing motion.


6. You can light your pumpkin with a candle or use a glow stick.

Salt Cod Cakes—A Fish Dish with a Tale all its Own

If you've ever visited an Italian market and wondered what the dried fish "salt cod"—also known as baccalá—is used for, you wouldn't be alone. What good could come from a fish as dry as a wooden plank?

If you were in a Mediterranean market in Italy, France, Spain, or Greece, you'd know exactly what good comes from that dried plank of fish. Salt cod has been on Mediterranean menus since the 1200s, when the long-term preservation of fish, canning, and refrigeration were not yet invented.

It's dry and smells fishy—characteristics you wouldn't want in fresh fish—but with salt cod, it's just part of the miracle of this beloved fish.

The Culinary Institute of America's Salt Cod Cakes is a traditional New England favorite dating back to colonial times when cod fishing was a primary industry there. Fisherman dried and salted the cod soon after catching. It was simple to cure and, more importantly, it didn't spoil on long journeys back to port and kept well for longer periods when fresh fish wasn't readily available.

Salt cod, for all its relative obscurity, had a major role in the battle for this country's independence, according to Mark Kurlansky's lyrical, historical fish tale Cod, a New York Times bestseller. This simple white fish became tangled in the great trade and fishing rights battles of the 1700s. Cod's abundance—and potential profit—in the area of the Grand Banks in Newfoundland became central to New England's commercial trade disputes with the British. But years of overfishing in the Grand Banks has depleted Atlantic cod stocks. Most of today's commercial salt cod originates in the Alaskan Pacific region.

The preparation of salt cod cakes is quite simple, but does take planning. The cod must be rinsed in multiple changes of water, then soaked overnight in water to reconstitute. The reconstituted fish, now swollen to nearly the size when it was fresh, is rinsed again thoroughly, then gently poached in milk. The result is a flavorful, firm fish that adds great depth to seafood dishes like salt cod cakes.

After assembling the cod cakes, they are pan-fried before finishing in the oven.

"One of the most important considerations when you are pan-frying is to have the oil at the right temperature," says Phil Delaplane, assistant professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America. Chef Delaplane adds, "Take a small amount of breading and put it into the oil. If it does nothing, the oil is not ready. If it starts to burn, it is too hot. The breading should begin to fry gently and turn golden brown."

Served with a flavorful rémoulade sauce, the CIA's recipe for Salt Cod Cakes will be the best catch on your New England menu.

The Culinary Institute of America's
New England Cod Cakes with Bacon and Remoulade Sauce.

Photo Credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

Salt Cod Cakes
Serves 6

• 1 pound Salt Cod filet
• Water as needed
• 2 2/3 cups milk
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 cups onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 2/3 cups Russet potatoes (2–3 large), peeled
• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoon brown mustard
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• 1 cup Panko Japanese bread crumbs
• 12 slices bacon
• Vegetable oil to pan-fry as needed
• 12 toothpicks

1. Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water. Soak the salt cod overnight in a large amount of water in the refrigerator.


2. The next day, remove the salt cod from the water. Cut the cod into large chunks and simmer in the milk for 15 minutes.


3. Discard the milk and rinse off the salt-cod under cold water. Taste the cod—it should not be salty. Roughly chop the cod. Chill.


4. Sauté the onions and garlic in butter over medium-low heat until translucent, about 8 minutes. Chill.


5. Cut potatoes into sixths and simmer in water until they are tender, about 8-10 minutes. Drain well.


6. Mash potatoes lightly or mill through a ricer. Lightly combine potatoes and salt cod, leaving large flakes of cod visible.


7. Add the eggs, mustard, Worcestershire, Tabasco, parsley, sweated onions and garlic, salt, and black pepper. Check seasonings and chill at least 20 minutes before forming.


8. Form mixture into 12 rounded cod cakes. Bread lightly in Panko and then wrap a piece of bacon around the outside of the cod cake. Secure bacon with a toothpick.


9. Pour vegetable oil in a large sauté pan to approximately 1/2" depth. Oil should come about halfway up the cod. Heat oil to 350°F.


10. Pan-fry the cod cakes to set the crust and brown lightly, turning once. Remove and drain on paper towels. Finish baking in a shallow pan in a 350°F oven for 8–10 minutes or until heated through.

Nutritional information per cod cake: 270 calories, 14 grams protein, 10 grams fat, 30 grams carbohydrates, 470 milligrams sodium, 50 milligrams cholesterol.


Rémoulade Sauce
Serves 10

• 1 cup mayonnaise


• 1 heaping tablespoon capers, chopped


• 1 tablespoon Gherkin pickles (sour), chopped


• 1 tablespoon chives, chopped


• 1/2 tablespoon chervil, chopped


• 1/2 tablespoon tarragon, chopped


• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard


• 1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste


• Salt, black pepper to taste


• Worcestershire sauce to taste


• Tabasco sauce to taste

1. Combine all ingredients; mix together well.


2. Hold the sauce under refrigeration. Adjust the seasoning just before serving if necessary.

Nutritional information per serving: 90 calories, 0 grams protein, 8 grams fat, 6 grams carbohydrates, 410 milligrams sodium, 5 milligrams cholesterol.

Spice up your Summer with Farm-Stand Heirloom Tomato Salsas

There are few things more cherished by gardeners than home-grown summer tomatoes. These sun-kissed beauties are unlike the traditional tomatoes you'll find on most supermarket shelves. Yes, those tomatoes are red. Yes, they call them "tomatoes," but that's where the similarities end.

"Many supermarket tomatoes are picked as they're just starting to break color on the shoulders of the tomato, no where near ripe," said Paul Wigsten, produce buyer for The Culinary Institute of America, "Then they're put on trucks where ethylene gas is pumped in and they are ripened in the box. These tomatoes are bred for traveling and appearance, not taste."

Wigsten, a third generation farmer, knows tomatoes. He grows heirloom varieties on his 40-acre Pleasant Valley, NY farm. So in demand are these agricultural blasts from the past that he has sold his entire crop already, a month ahead of harvest. Heirloom tomatoes are self-pollinated and their seeds can be saved, handed down (thus the heirloom) and sown to create the same tomato generation after generation.

Commercially produced tomatoes are hybrid and artificially pollinated. A simple observation of hybrid veggies from a home-composter; if you throw a store-bought hybrid green zucchini into the compost and the seeds take root, what grows could be a yellow long zucchini, a bulbous green one, a round green and white striped one. Why? The genes and chosen characteristics from all those individual plants were crossed to form one commercially perfect green zucchini.

Likewise, traditional hybrid, supermarket tomatoes all look the same - round, pinkish red and often lacking in robust flavor. Heirloom varieties don't look like these tomatoes. Their colors are deep and rich with rippled skins and varied sizes and shapes. "We market them at the farm-stand as "ugly" tomatoes, but the taste is out of this world," said Wigsten.

And while store tomatoes have thicker disease-resistant skins that won't split in transport, heirlooms don't. "Heirloom tomatoes are not grown for travel. They don't ship well and are easily damaged," said Wigsten. He recommends purchasing heirloom tomatoes at your local farm-stand.

To choose the best tomatoes, smell them. Farm-fresh tomatoes smell sweet. They should also be heavy, from all the vine-ripened juiciness. These vine-ripened goddesses were picked just hours before their arrival at the farm stand and they might still be warm from the sun.

You'll find farm-stand tomatoes in a variety of shapes and colors including the Striped German or Cherokee purple. Wigsten reminds people never to refrigerate tomatoes (which is how commercial tomatoes are stored), as it changes their chemical composition and sugar content, and can make them mealy and unappealing.

Heirloom tomatoes might cost a little more, but the flavor is worth it. For these three tomato salsas from The Culinary Institute of America, use the freshest locally-grown tomatoes you can find.

The CIA's tomato salsas won't conceal the tomato's delicious fruitiness. The small amount of lime juice or vinegar will brighten and balance the tomato's natural sweetness. Simply combine salsa ingredients and let stand briefly to allow the flavors to blend.

Using heirloom, organic, fresh-picked local tomatoes will yield a salsa bursting with flavor and natural sweetness. The toughest part will be finding a chip worthy of your salsa's greatness.

Visit the CIA on-line at www.ciachef.edu to learn more about heirloom tomatoes with a humorous video by Paul Wigsten himself. View the video demonstration on YouTube™.

The following recipes, along with additional ones for your summer fruits and vegetables can be found in the CIA's two new beautifully illustrated cookbooks, Vegetables (2007, Lebhar-Friedman) and Hors d'Oeuvre at Home (2007, John Wiley & Sons), and are available in bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks.

 

Chayote-Jicama Salsa can be made with any of your favorite
heirloom tomatoes and is a great complement to any summer party.

Photo Credit: CIA/Ben Fink

Chayote-Jicama Salsa
Serves 6 to 8

• 1 chayote squash, peeled and sliced
• 1 jicama, peeled and julienned
• 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• 1 jalapeño, minced fine
• 1/2 cup diced red onion
• 1 Tbsp cider vinegar
• Salt and pepper as needed
• Dash of Tabasco to taste

1. Bring about 1 inch of water to a rolling boil over high heat in a sauté pan. Add the sliced chayote and cover the pan. Pan-steam the squash for about 12 minutes or until the chayote is very tender. Drain it, and rinse with cool water to stop the cooking.


2. Combine the chayote slices with all of the remaining ingredients in a bowl.


3. Chill the salsa for at least 2 to 3 hours or overnight. Taste the salsa and adjust the seasonings with additional vinegar, salt, pepper, or Tabasco, as needed.

Blackened Tomato Salsa
"Blackening" the tomatoes gives them a smoky taste, as well as making it easy to peel the tomatoes.

Serves 6

• 5 plum tomatoes
• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• 1 Spanish onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1/2 dried chipotle chile
• Salt to taste

1. Place the tomatoes on a wire rack directly over a gas burner or on a medium-high grill. Turn them frequently until they are blackened over their entire surface. Set aside.


2. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion slices and cook on both sides until they are a very deep brown, about 15 to 20 minutes total cooking time.


3. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and onions. Combine the tomatoes, onions, chili, and salt in a blender of food processor. Puree the mixture in short pulses to make a chunky salsa. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Salsa Fresca
Serves 16

• 1 lb 2 oz tomatoes, seeded and diced
• 1/2 cup minced onion
• 1 green pepper, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 Tbsp chopped cilantro
• 1 tsp chopped oregano
• 2 limes, juiced
• 1 jalapeño, minced
• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine all ingredients, taste, and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate leftovers.

Give Fresh Vegetables the "Golden" Treatment this Summer with the CIA's Recipe for Tempura

Tempura is, at first glance, a simple dish consisting of batter-coated vegetables or fish which have been deep-fried. But properly prepared tempura is much, much more.

Imagine the freshest shrimp cooked to tender, sweet perfection, scantily dressed in only a thin, crunchy lace shell. Tempura is the gild on the culinary lily, adding a textural crown to the most perfect, freshest morsels.

Tempura incorporates the classic Japanese culinary traditions of using the freshest ingredients prepared simply, to maintain their natural flavor, and artfully presenting them. The Culinary Institute of America's vegetable tempura captures all those elements, yielding crisp, golden vegetables paired with a traditional Asian-style dipping sauce.

Traditional tempura is crisp, light and fresh-tasting. Remembering a few basic elements of good tempura cooking will help you achieve results that rival even the best Japanese restaurants.

"The most important element of good tempura is fresh ingredients. It is not a way to use up aging vegetables from the depths of your refrigerator. There is little coating to mask the vegetables' flavor," said Chef Shirley Cheng, instructor at the Culinary Institute of America.

"To prevent the shrimp from curling when frying, score the underside of the shrimp a few times with a small knife, then press the scored side onto a cutting board, massaging the shrimp straight from tail to head, breaking up the tissue that typically contracts when heated," said Cheng. If your guests are cooking their own tempura, use a long skewer run lengthwise to straighten shrimp.

Cold water is essential in tempura to keep gluten from forming in the batter (like using ice water in pie dough). Over-mixing the batter could develop gluten, so mix only until the lumps disappear. Refrigerating the batter while the oil is heating will also relax the gluten in the batter.

Use only fresh (not reused) vegetable oil for tempura. A combination of vegetable, canola or peanut oil can be used. Oil should be heated to and maintained at 350°F. A thick-walled pot will help maintain oil temperature, as will a good deep-frying thermometer.

Fry vegetables in batches until light golden brown, and then drain briefly on paper towels. To maintain its crisp, hot texture, arrange tempura on a warmed decorative platter in light, lofty piles, allowing steam to escape between the pieces. Serve immediately with a small bowl of dipping sauce and, if desired, a julienne of Nori seaweed. Commonly used to wrap sushi rolls, Nori seaweed comes in dried sheets and can be cut with scissors to create a beautiful, edible and nutritious garnish. Nori seaweed can be found at your local Asian market or in fine food markets.

This and other delicious recipes can be found in Vegetables, the CIA's latest cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman, 2007), available now at bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks/.

 

Vegetable Tempura

Photo Credit: CIA/Ben Fink

Tempura
Makes 4 to 6 appetizer servings

Dipping Sauce

• 2 scallions, minced
• 1/4 cup soy sauce, plus as needed
• 1/4 cup water
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1 tbsp minced gingerroot
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp dry mustard
• 1 tsp hot chili sauce, plus as needed

Batter

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 4 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 cup dark sesame oil
• 1/2 lb. large shrimp (26/30 count), peeled but tail shell intact, deveined, straightened
• 1 cup red pepper strips
• 1 cup yellow pepper strips
• 1 cup broccoli florets
• 1 cup quartered mushrooms
• 1 small zucchini, cut on the diagonal, 1/8 inch thick
• 1 small yellow squash, cut on the diagonal, 1/8 inch thick
• Salt and pepper as needed
• Vegetable oil for deep frying

For the dipping sauce:

1. Combine the scallions, soy sauce, water, vinegar, honey, ginger, garlic, mustard, and hot sauce in a bowl.
   
2. Cover and refrigerate to let the flavors blend for at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
   
3. Taste and adjust the seasoning with soy sauce and hot sauce before serving.

For the batter:

1. Whisk together the flour and baking powder.
   
2. Add the cold water and sesame oil all at once and whisk until about the thickness of pancake batter and very smooth.
   
3. Refrigerate until ready to prepare the tempura.

1. Leave the tail shell on the shrimp (to serve as a handle) and massage the underside of the shrimp to straighten.
   
2. Blot the shrimp and vegetables dry, season with salt and pepper, and dip them in the batter to coat evenly.
   
3. Pour the oil into a tall pot to a depth of 3 inches.
   
4. Heat over medium heat until the oil registers 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Work in batches to avoid crowding
   
5. Slip the batter-coated shrimp and vegetables into the hot oil. Deep fry until the batter is golden brown and puffy, 3 to 4 minutes.
   
6. Turn the vegetables, if necessary, to brown and cook evenly.
   
7. Remove from the pot with tongs and drain briefly on absorbent towels.
   
8. Serve the vegetables at once with the dipping sauce.