CIA Culinary Intelligence

A Holiday Gift from the Sea: Pan-Fried Calamari

For simple but sparkling holiday entertaining, nothing shines quite like champagne and seafood appetizers. The pairing of salty, savory appetizers with champagne makes for an easy yet elegant party menu.

The Culinary Institute of America's fresh-fried calamari is a classic quick-cook starter that goes perfectly with a glass of bubbly. Epicurean entertaining from New York to Hong Kong to the sunny coast of the Mediterranean features seafood and sparkling wine on the menu – it's a pairing meant for parties.

"Sparkling wine is not only great for celebrations," explains John Fischer, Associate Professor in Table Service at The Culinary Institute of America. "It also happens to be great with food. With its bubbles and good acidity, it goes particularly well with salty and rich foods, like the CIA's pan-fried calamari."

While calamari is an American bistro staple, it can be found in restaurants and family kitchens all over the Mediterranean. Sometimes served with aioli, sometimes topped with parmesan cheese, always blessed with a spritz of lemon, calamari is a simple, yet delectable gift from the sea.

In America, fried calamari is most often accompanied by a marinara sauce or a spicy tomato "Fra Diavolo." Tartar sauce or pepperoncini-flavored aioli can be served as well, but fresh-fried calamari is a confident solo performer.

The difference between perfect tender-crisp calamari and breaded rubber rings is only a matter of minutes. Over-frying it to gain a dark brown coating will yield an inedible mass of chewiness. Calamari needs only a few minutes in hot oil to reach a golden perfection as light as the sparkling Mediterranean. The time in the fryer should resemble a quick dip in the ocean, not a long soak in a hot tub.

Cleaned, ready-to-cook calamari is widely available from fishmongers. Frozen calamari can also be used after defrosting. This calamari recipe uses a simple breading process of first dipping the squid in milk and then lightly seasoned flour. The result is a crispy coating that won't fall off during frying.

Deep-frying in batches without over-crowding will help maintain oil temperature. It's a great choice for intimate gatherings where your guests can join you in the kitchen.

Champagne and calamari – they'll be the most talked about couple at your next holiday gathering!

This recipe has been adapted from The Culinary Institute of America Vegetables cookbook (2007 Lebhar-Friedman), which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks_dvds.

 

Crisp and salty snacks, like the CIA's Calamari, make a
perfect accompaniment for Champagne this holiday season.

Photo Credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

Pan-fried Calamari
Makes 4-6 appetizer servings

• 3/4 pound fresh calamari, cleaned and rinsed
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, or as needed for dredging
• 2 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning mix
• Salt and pepper as needed
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 cup olive or canola oil, or as needed for pan frying
• 2 cups tomato sauce (recipe below) warmed

1. Cut the squid's body into thin rings approximately 1/8-inch thick. Rinse the rings and tentacles thoroughly in cold water, then blot dry on absorbent toweling.


2. Combine the flour, Old Bay seasoning, salt, and pepper in a large plate or pan. Pour milk into a shallow bowl.


3. Add the oil to a skillet (there should be about 1/4-inch covering the bottom and preheat the oil over medium-high heat.


4. Dip the squid rings and tentacles into the milk first and then in the seasoned flour, turning to coat evenly. Immediately lower the coated calamari into the hot oil. Cook, turning occasionally, until the squid is golden brown on all sides, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the calamari from the oil and drain briefly on absorbent toweling.


5. Serve the squid with the warm tomato sauce for dipping.

Nutrition analysis per 3.25-ounce serving using canola oil and without tomato sauce: 140 calories, 11g protein, 11g carbohydrate, 6g fat, 230mg sodium, 135mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

Tomato Sauce
Makes 6 servings

• 2 Tablespoons olive oil
• 2 yellow onions, finely diced
• 8 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 1/2 pounds plum (Roma) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 1 Tablespoon fresh basil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.


2. Add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 6 minutes.


3. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.


4. Add the tomatoes, bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20-25 minutes.


5. Add the basil and simmer for 5 minutes more.


6. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Nutrition analysis per one-ounce serving: 10 calories, 0g protein, 2g carbohydrate, 0.5g fat, 10mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0g fiber.

Turkey Carving 101

On November 27, while millions of succulent turkeys are roasting away in ovens across America, equal numbers of home cooks will be nervously thinking about how they will carve the traditional Thanksgiving turkey in front of the watchful eyes of their families. Carving a turkey can be simple, and there is no reason for it to induce a panic attack in front of your assembled family. Chef Paul Sartory, a professor at The Culinary Institute of America, has these simple suggestions for you to ensure a perfectly carved turkey every time.

First, make sure your knife is very sharp. This makes carving the turkey easier and safer. A sharp knife will glide through the meat, and even cuts through joints with much less pressure than a dull one. If necessary, take the knife to a butcher shop or knife sharpener prior to the holiday so that they can put a good edge on the blade.

Once you remove it from the oven, allow your turkey to rest on the cutting board for approximately 20 minutes prior to carving. This will ensure that you do not lose the majority of the natural juices within the bird that help keep your dinner moist and delicious. Then—after allowing yourself ample elbow room—you are ready to carve your turkey.

1. Remove the drumstick and thigh in one piece, cutting between the breast and thigh all the way down to the hip joint.


2. Pull the whole leg/thigh section away. Grab it with your hand and pull apart until it pops the hip joint out of the socket. You may also have to slightly cut the meat surrounding the joint for easier removal of the leg.


3. Separate the drumstick and the thigh where they meet.


4. Slice the meat off the drumstick and thigh.


5. Repeat steps 1–4 for the other drumstick-thigh section.


6. Leave wings on for stability in carving the white meat, to prevent the turkey from rocking back and forth.


7. Start carving down the center of the top of the breast by the keel bone. Slice down on both sides of the bone and loosen the meat from the ribs. Beginning at the top, slice perpendicular to the bird through to the keel bone. Pull each slice up off the rib cage and arrange the slices in a row. When you have finished one side, slide your knife under the row of meat and transfer the row to a platter. Turn the turkey and repeat with the second side.


8. After you remove the wings, your professionally carved bird is ready to be served.

The following recipe can be found in Cooking At Home with The Culinary Institute of America (2003, John Wiley & Sons, Inc), available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks_dvds.

Photo Credit: CIA/Keith Ferris

Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy

Makes 10 Servings

• 1 turkey (about 15 lb)
• 1 apple, quartered
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 large sprig fresh thyme
• 1/2 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1–2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3/4 cup diced yellow onion
• 1/2 cup diced carrot
• 1/2 cup diced celery
• 5 cups chicken broth (divided use)

Cornstarch slurry

• 1/3 cup cornstarch blended with 1/3 cup cold water or chicken broth

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Set a roasting rack in a large flameproof roasting pan.


2. Stuff the turkey with the apple, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley. Rub the lemon juice over the entire bird and season with salt and pepper. Place the turkey breast side up on the rack in the roasting pan, transfer to the oven, and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Roast for 3 hours, basting occasionally with accumulated pan drippings. Remove from the oven. Transfer the turkey, on its rack, to a baking sheet. Degrease the pan drippings by skimming away any excess fat from the surface. Return the turkey and any juices that have accumulated on the sheet to the roasting pan and return to the oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the turkey's thigh registers 180°F, 30–60 minutes more. Remove the turkey and the rack from the roasting pan, cover the bird, and let rest.


3. While the turkey is resting, combine the pan drippings, onion, carrot, and celery in a saucepan. Add 1/2cup of the broth to the roasting pan and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits from the pan bottom. Add to the saucepan along with the remaining broth. Simmer over medium heat until slightly reduced and flavorful, skimming away any fat that rises to the surface, 20–25 minutes.


4. Gradually add the cornstarch slurry to the simmering broth, whisking constantly, until the gravy has a good consistency. Simmer 2 minutes more, strain, taste, and season with salt and pepper.


5. Remove and discard the apple, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley. Carve the turkey and serve with the gravy.

Chef's note: The rule of thumb for turkey roasting is to allow about 20 minutes per pound; use this to calculate the approximate roasting time for birds larger than the one called for in this recipe.

Turkey Pot Pie Helps to "Gobble" Up Leftovers

As any pot pie lover will tell you, it's a bittersweet moment when you first plunge into that golden brown crust. Spoiling the golden perfection of that top-crust seems almost selfish, but the rich payoff just beneath the surface is worth it. That first burst of steam from the flaky crust, a glimpse of bright orange carrots, tender morsels of turkey buoyed in the creamiest sauce – it's warm and satisfying, and you haven't even tasted it yet.

The enduring appeal of pot pies in American cuisine is not surprising. Pot pies are quick and easy one-dish meals and, more importantly, they utilize those ever-present leftovers in the refrigerator. What better way to use leftover Thanksgiving turkey than in a perfectly seasoned, hot-from-the-oven pot pie.

The Culinary Institute of America's pot pie recipe uses leftover chicken or turkey and a variety of diced fresh vegetables cooked in a simple flour-based sauce. It can be topped with puff pastry or prepared pie crust, homemade or store-bought. Leftover mashed potatoes can also make a perfect pot pie "crust" by being piped on top of the dish before baking. The result is a rich, satisfying meal that can be prepared in about an hour.

The sauce in this recipe is made from chicken stock thickened by a roux - flour blended and cooked with melted butter. According to the CIA's instructor Chef Lynne Gigliotti, "It's important to cook your sauce over a low heat for at least 20 minutes, to remove the taste of the flour."

American pot pies go back to the Colonial days when the pastry-topped casseroles would be hung above open fires and left to slow-cook. A cousin of the English savory tarts and pasties, the pot pie has a warm place in the heart of American food culture. It's simple, hearty food that is among our favorite comfort foods.

This and other easy comfort food recipes can be found in The Culinary Institute of America's cookbook, One Dish Meals (2006 Lebhar-Friedman), which is available for purchase at bookstores nationwide or at www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks_dvds.

Turkey Pot Pie
Makes four to six servings

Start to finish time – 2 hours (includes 30-45 minutes of baking time)

• three tablespoons butter or vegetable oil
• one and one-half cups diced yellow onion
• two teaspoons minced garlic
• three tablespoons flour
• three cups turkey or chicken broth
• salt as needed
• freshly ground black pepper as needed
• one cup diced carrot
• one cup diced celery
• two cups diced red or Yukon Gold potato
• four cups diced cooked turkey meat
• one cup green peas (thawed if frozen)
• two tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• two nine-inch prepared pie crusts, frozen puff pastry sheets (thawed), or other topping of choice such as leftover mashed potatoes

1. Heat the butter or oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until tender, about ten to twelve minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until aromatic, about thirty seconds. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until pasty and thick, about two minutes. Add the broth, whisking well to work out any lumps. Bring to a boil and then immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened, about fifteen minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.


3. Add the carrot, celery, and potato to the broth mixture, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about twenty to thirty minutes (depending on the size of the cut). Add the turkey and peas and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped parsley.


4. Spoon the filling into individual crocks or a baking dish. Cut pie crust or puff pastry dough to the appropriate size and shape and cover the filling. Cuts vents in the crust and press the edges of the dough onto the baking dish or crocks to seal.


5. Bake the pot pie until the pie crust or puff pastry is golden and flaky, about forty-five minutes for a large pot pie and twenty-five minutes for individual crocks. Serve immediately.

Nutrition analysis per 13-ounce serving: 490 calories, 21g protein, 45g carbohydrate, 26g fat, 570mg sodium, 35mg cholesterol, 4g fiber